Spotlight on Varietals: Lagrein

Lagrein (pronounced lah-grine or lah-grayn) hails from the Alto Adige, a region in Alpine Italy, and is found practically nowhere else, barring a handful of California and Southern Oregon producers.

As elusive as Lagrein is, Indie Vinos is thrilled to offer the Praxis Cellars Lagrein, one of the few from California.

Bill and Susan Arbios of Arbios/Praxis Cellars discovered the varietal while traveling through Italy en route to see the remains of Utzi, the Alpine Ice man and oldest natural mummy. Having never heard of the varietal despite his years of winemaking experience, Bill became fascinated with this grape that he found so unlike any other. He spent six months tracing vine clippings through US Customs to California, then planted the grapes in conditions strikingly similar to those in which they grew in Italy: 1800 feet elevation, exposed to maritime air that replicated the Italian alpine air.

That was nearly 20 years ago, and Susan believes they’re now the largest producer of US Lagrein. While most of their grapes have been sold for blending – their dominant traditional use – the Praxis Cellars 2007 Lagrein represents Arbios’ first vintage of the varietal.

Lagrein is a 500-year-old cross between the Teroldego and Pinot Noir grapes. Bill and Susan believe the cross was made as “tavern quaff” for those passing along the trade routes out of Venice through the Brenner Pass. Quaffable though it may be, wines made from the varietal have been described by Eric Asimov as “congenial, straightforward … deliciously plummy, earthy and chewy, dark and full-bodied but not heavy.” Because they tend toward very low tannins (those are the astringents that give young wines noticeable, sometimes harsh, dry, mouth-puckering effects but also contribute to a wine’s ability to age well), Lagreins offer the pleasure of big, bold, dark fruits with easy drinkability.

The Praxis Lagrein is indeed easy drinking, presenting flavors of blackberries, black cherry, blueberries and plum with mocha and herbs. The wine is rich in mouthfeel and color but surprisingly light bodied. It is best enjoyed now, and can be savored with a number of foods, such as pizza, robust pasta sauces, stew or game.

A word to the wise: Lagrein is not for drinking at lunch if you have to go back to work. Much as Petit Sirah does, Lagrein tends to stain your lips and teeth with its deep purple hue.

Good Through 11/11/11: Save 15% when you purchase 3 bottles of Lagrein. PLUS, shipping's included.

Your discount will apply automatically during the check-out process.